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03
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Baglio Passofondo, the unexpected restaurant with chef table, creativity and a delicious risotto

on 03 Luglio 2018. Pubblicato in Dove mangio

In Alcamo, the restaurant of a newly opened resort. In the kitchen two young men who wink at technique and territory. Here's what we liked most and what we liked less


(Fabio Taormina and Cristian Lepore)

The experience of a chef table in the part of Sicily most impervious to innovation. This would be enough to go to the south of Alcamo, in the westernmost province of Sicily, to know the cuisine of two young chefs and the resort blossomed a few weeks ago and owned by an entrepreneur with Sicilian origins, who made his fortune in California and today lives in Hong Kong.

Anthony Stellino is a great gourmet still in love with Sicily. So he created the luxury Baglio Passofondo resort. Now we will talk about the restaurant. Meanwhile, a tip: to reach Baglio Passfondo exit at Gallitello, on the Palermo-Mazara del Vallo motorway and look for the old main road 119 to go in the opposite direction to Gibellina waiting for some easy signs indicating the shortest route out at the junction of Alcamo West.

The chef table is really there and can host 4 to 5 diners at most, therefore organize and book if you want to enjoy this experience. Obviously the restaurant of Baglio Passofondo has a dozen traditional tables to accommodate a higher number of customers. A large travertine table welcomes diners, some stoves are visible, those who sit can enjoy the show with the two chefs, Cristian Lepore and Fabio Taormina, the first Roman, the latter Sicilian, both young with various quality experiences around Italy, sometimes alongside starred chefs.

The menu favours meat, dishes of land, the raw material mostly Sicilian. It is possible to eat à la carte. But there is also a 90 euro tasting menu with seven dishes, wines not included. The dishes are almost all well-defined and combine the pleasantness, creativity and a good ability to manage the ingredients. Sitting at the chef table is an experience because it allows to converse with the two chefs, who also have a good dialectic in telling what they do in front of your eyes. Before enjoying the other senses.

The departure is dazzling with an amuse bouche representing a very Sicilian welcome. Macco of broad beans, almond cream and bacon of black pork of Nebrodi. Beautiful balance and freshness with the sweetness of broad beans that contrasts with the flavor of the bacon and gives a good persistence.

It is up to the appetizer with a juicy octopus, watermelon gazpacho and ginger yogurt, well done and an acidity that opens the palate.

The sweetbreads of suckling calves, chard and lemon air follows, the other appetizer that plays with the little Sicilian fifth quarter and a combination that recalls the island. Good the contrast with the chard, but the lemon mousse is not very convincing in supporting the taste richness of the sweetbreads. Tortelli of ricotta with marjoram and lemon on datterini confit cream appear a pinch buttery. But overall the result is satisfying. Also because the dexterity that takes place in front the clients is appreciable. The two chefs spare no effort and the show is guaranteed.

The Risotto with onion broth, anchovies, lemons and crispy capers is surprising. The cooking is amazing, the grains well separated, the onion broth is a brushstroke, the play between sweet and savory, flavor and acidity is very satisfying, it is one of the best dishes.

We also enjoyed the Lamb loin, potato cylinders, roasted shallot onion, of which the timely cooking of the meat should be enhanced. A result as a whole successful. But for us the beef cheek with Nero d'Avola is even better, cream of aniseed carrots and chicory. A chunk of meat, soft thanks to a wise long cooking and a difficult but refined balance with cream and vegetables. A great plate.

The conclusion is entrusted to the two desserts. The dematerialized version of a cannolo with cocoa sponge, ricotta and wine, that however is too little sweet.

And then a great finish with Crème brulée with pistachio and lavender. A sensual and immediate dish with the simplicity of the combinations and the selection of the raw material.


(Martina Gangi receptionist and Giovanna Abrami)

For the reception, Giovanna Abrami manages everything with professionalism. It looks like a close-knit team. At lunch there is a different proposal, faster but well taken care of.

What we liked best
The unexpected place in a part of Sicily that upset this type of proposal, the chef table, the dialectic of the chefs, the dishes for consistency and creativity, the traceability of the major part of the raw material.

What we liked less
The lack of fish dishes (the Tyrrhenian Sea is about twenty kilometers away, Mazara del Vallo 40 kilometers) on which to set up a more summery proposal. The wine list, albeit with good labels, should be expanded and above all reasoned to give meaning to drinking.

The phrase of the evening: it is from the chef Cristian Lepore: "The waste in the kitchen is the first failure".

F.C.

Baglio Passofondo
Strada provinciale 119, chilometro 7 - Alcamo (Tp)
Tel. 0924 1836042
Giorno di chiusura: mai
Ferie: mai
Carte di credito: tutte
Posteggio: sì

 

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